![]() Regulator is built into the unit, so I might take it to the local alternator shop this weekend and have them just give it a once over for cheap piece of mind. The battery that is in the car now had been run as a total loss battery by accident, which probably didn't help things. This is the first time I've noticed because, to be honest, it's the first time in three years the alternator has been working and charging the battery (wiring issue before). I've currently pulled the battery and have it sitting off the tender to see if it's holding voltage. The first is to disconnect the Battery from all Electrical Circuits. Is the regulator built into the alternator or in a separate box? Our Cartek Battery Isolators provide two functions. I'm assuming that this is the first time that you've notice, but it may well have been happening all along. Heat has a big (negative) effect on their output, and it may be a case of normal operation. I have a lot of experience with adapting alternators into cars not meant for them. It wasn't a hot day and the car never really got over 200 degrees, and the hood is well vented.Ĭheck it again now that it's cooled off. Not saying that isn't possible, but disappointing if that's the case. Cartek isolators are designed to meet FIA requirements for. This unit is triggered by a push button switch which can be remote-mounted in the location specified by the rules, in multiple locations. Especially if it is a "high capacity" alternator that shoves 10 pounds of stuff into a 5 pound frame.Īlternator is a Powermaster unit spec'd by the folks there. The Cartek GT Battery Isolator is a solid-state electrical master switch kit that can be mounted close to the battery, for shorter cable runs. ![]() The GT Battery Isolator is designed for cars with no ECU or standard OE ECU. The alternator could be crapping out when hot. CARTEK electronic Battery Isolators are a very small and highly reliable. The rest of the car uses a CARTEK BATTERY ISOLATOR GT - Īs far as I can tell and measure, the grounding is good. I have another volt meter tied into the other side of the system (see CARTEK below) and they are usually close, but not always in agreement. That ignition source wire is also how the ECU measures and logs voltage. The ECU (Holley Sniper) is connected directly to the battery (positive, negative, and a relay triggered positive for ignition). First place to check would be the Ground from the Battery to the frame.
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